When Parisians eat out they don't always choose a Michelin-starred restaurant; they often prefer a less formal establishment chosen from the renowned subset of bistros, brasseries and wine bars. If you want to sample the joys of these traditional French eateries without leaving home, join Daniel Young, an accomplished expert on gastronomy, French and otherwise, as he tours his favorites in The Bistros, Brasseries and Wine Bars of Paris. It's fun to follow Young's lively explanation of the differences between the three B's, with observations from owners, chefs and habituŽs, but it's even more fun to follow the recipes for the food prepared in them. These recipes were selected for their adaptability and doability from bistros, brasseries and wine bars that exalt the ordinary, the food ordinary Parisians eat on ordinary nights. But many seem quite special, even extraordinaire, to this ordinary American. For a recent dinner party, I made the Endive Tatin with Goat Cheese, followed by a classic Veal Blanquette, newly spiced with ginger and lemongrass, and finished off with a super-silky version of Crme Caramel. And that's just a small sample of the Parisian pleasures you'll find here. If you do get to Paris, Young includes a list of his favorite haunts, with addresses and descriptions a true insider's gourmet guide. Bon appŽtit!

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