<B>I'm falling in love again</B> Culinary love, that is, and the recipient of my adulation will come as no surprise to the cooks who use his many wonderful cookbooks and to the food aficionados who are instructed and inspired by his many PBS series. Nobody does it better than Jacques PŽpin: he's a master chef and a master at conveying his love of food to others. The recipes in <B>Jacques PŽpin: Fast Food My Way</B> are easy and elegant dishes you'll want to add to your everyday repertoire and to your canon of dinner party classics. It's not a big book, but there are more keepers here than I've found in a long time. I made the Chicken Tonnato (poached chicken breasts coated with a velvety tuna/anchovy sauce) first and knew immediately that, after making this dish for years from lots of different recipes, I'd found the finest and the fastest. Then I tried the Oven-Baked Salmon with Sun-Dried Tomato and Salsa Mayonnaise divine and divinely easy (you cook the fish on its serving plate in a slow oven and can make the sauce well in advance). Pork chops in a zesty tomato-olive sauce is a winning dish, as is Broccoli Rabe and Pea Fricassee, Pumpkin Soup with Toasted Walnuts and bubbling Egg and Tomato Gratin. There are appetizers, salads and desserts, menus, make-ahead tips and extra ideas for quick dishes so uncomplicated that recipes are unnecessary. This tribute to very simple food is simply sensational.

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