Flavorful fast food that you can make at home is the cooking mantra of the moment (and a long, lingering moment it is), but I was surprised to see that Nancy Silverton, doyenne of dough, chef/founder of the famed La Brea Bakery and award-winning cookbook author, has taken it up. And I think that she surprised herself, too: For me to write a book in which a jar of mayonnaise is even mentioned is revolutionary. But it's a revolution that I felt had to happen. To aid and abet that revolution and the millions of folks who don't have the time to make everything in a recipe from scratch but do want more than takeout, Nancy advocates the quality pre-made aid that comes in jars, cans, bags and boxes. She calls her revolutionary tract A Twist of the Wrist and offers 137 recipes that take advantage of the fabulous, readily available array of imported and homegrown products you can use to create satisfying entrŽes, soups, salads and desserts. You can jazz up a box of purŽed corn soup with bacon and cheddar crostini; serve seared filet of beef on canned cannellini beans, topped with jarred olive tapenade; finish a meal with Greek yogurt swathed in orange marmalade and crowned with a scoop of orange sorbet. A twist of that wrist is all it takes.

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