hocoholics anonymous With the able assistance of food writer Dorie Greenspan, Pierre HermŽ, a premier pastry chef and master dessert designer, offers the answer to every chocoholic's prayer in Chocolate Desserts by Pierre HermŽ. Pierre has created more than 100 recipes for this celebrated, sensuous, shape-shifting substance that can be creamy, crunchy, hard, soft, hot, cold, darkest brown or milky white. Though all the recipes have been translated for the American home kitchen, this is not casual cooking, and that often ignored caveat to read the recipes carefully before starting is imperative here. You don't want to start a Chocolate and Hazelnut Dacquoise, Triple Chocolate Meringue and Ice Cream Puffs or Chocolate-Caramel Truffles without knowing where you're going. But these two pros will keep you on track. The prep instructions are detailed and well thought out, and the results of your effort should win you high marks, gold stars and compliments galore.

Sybil Pratt has been cooking up this column for more than five years.

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