<B>Summertime and the livin' is easy</B> And, yes, the fish are jumpin' too. If you have any qualms or questions about how to handle these wonders from the briny deep, or just want some interesting seafood recipes, the book for you is <B>The New Legal Sea Foods Cookbook</B>. Legal Sea Foods, which takes its thought-provoking name from its motto and mantra, "If It Isn't Fresh, It Isn't Legal," started as a fish market in Cambridge, Massachusetts, more than 50 years ago, added a restaurant in 1968 and now has 26 more along the Eastern Seaboard. It's been an all-in-the-family business from the get-go, and Roger Berkowitz, at the helm for the last decade, remembers when they served fish two ways fried and broiled. Things have changed, to put it mildly, and here Berkowitz, with co-author Jane Doerfer, shares Legal's expanded, innovative repertoire of finfish and shellfish recipes. You can angle among an ample array of appetizers, including their signature Smoked Bluefish P‰tŽ, troll for marvelous main dishes, from Arctic Char with Pears to Wolffish with Peppers and Mushrooms, get the low-down on leftovers, salads, soups, sandwiches, sides, sauces, pasta and even a few fishless desserts. You'll also learn the how-tos of storing and selecting, as well as cooking techniques. There's nothing fishy about this fish story it's the real deal and charmingly illustrated by Edward Koren.

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