<b>The scoop on summer's favorite scoops</b> David Lebovitz's <b>The Perfect Scoop</b>, the biggest in size and length, sticks to recipes for the homemade variety only (though he'd never know if you used any of his 21 mix-ins to doctor up a purchased quart). More space is devoted to ice creams in a fabulous variety of flavors than other frozen confections, though they too get their due. Many are based on cooked custard fresh ginger, date, rum, pecan, lavender-honey; some are whipped up in the blender quite quickly oh-so-sophisticated prune Armagnac or tiramisu. David has great ideas for sauces and toppings, cookies for sandwiches and serving cups, along with good header notes and detailed directions.

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