Deborah Madison is a queen, too; she's the queen of vegetarian cuisine with a bevy of best-selling cookbooks that have pleased thousands. Vegetarian Suppers from Deborah Madison's Kitchen, her latest celebration of meatless meals with great appeal, is also a celebration of supper, a meal she dearly loves friendly, relaxed, without the formality of dinner, a time to cook and eat simply but superbly. For Deborah, supper can be an open sandwich of toasted country bread spread with olive paste and a shaving of cheese then heaped with garlicky sautŽed broccoli rabe, an omelet made with corn kernels, smoked mozzarella and fresh basil, a rustic cabbage and leek gratin with a tangy mustard sauce, zucchini skillet cakes with capers and pine nuts or polenta squares with gorgonzola cream, braised greens and cannellini beans. Many of her main dishes can be deconstructed to serve as first courses or sides and many can be paired to make super suppers. Suggestions for accompaniments and desserts are offered, as is advice on wine pairings. Vegetarianism has gone from far out to fashionable to fully accepted and Deborah Madison's vegophile philosophy has shown the way.

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