Where's the beef? It's with the lamb and the pork and the veal, being roasted, grilled, sauteed, braised, barbecued, and stir-fried under the supervision of gourmet sausage maven Bruce Aidells and Denis Kelly, who have gathered their collective, authoritative expertise into The Complete Meat Cookbook. Most of the meat we buy today is much leaner than it used to be, and not as succulent. This can lead to dreaded dried-out chops and shoe leather steaks. These two creative carnivores have made it their mission to show you how to prepare today's less fatty cuts so that they're juicy and flavorful. They provide the requisite tricks, tips, and techniques, all thoroughly and thoughtfully explained, from choosing the right cut and cooking method to choosing the right dry rub, marinade, or flavor brine (the latest vogue). But above all, they provide recipes, more than 230, all enthusiastically introduced, all conveniently categorized by their main characteristics Cooking on a Budget (under $2 a serving), Good for a Crowd, Great Leftovers, and many more. You'll find the exotic (tangy Moroccan Lemon Tagine made with lamb shoulder), and the elegant (roast fillet of beef with oysters and tasso), as well as new interpretations of time-honored classics (savory Shephard's Pie with 15 possible fillings). And you'll find great extras like Orange-Pineapple Salsa to perk up the pork or Greek Grape Leaf and Mint Sauce to add luster to the lamb, plus photographs and illustrations. Frankly, we love meat, say the authors; frankly, meat lovers will love their book.

Sybil Pratt is an avid cook.

comments powered by Disqus