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Once upon a time, drinking seemed like an author’s duty, an indulgence that defined the literary life. Of course, the era of the innocent cocktail has ended, but the scent of spirits nevertheless wafts through the work of many of our most prized writers. In a toast to the literary giants who turned the consumption of alcohol into an art, author Mark Bailey and artist Edward Hemingway have produced one of the most appealing gift books of the season, Hemingway and Bailey’s Bartending Guide to Great American Writers. Featuring famous imbibers such as William Faulkner, James Jones, Sinclair Lewis, Dorothy Parker, and, of course, Ernest Hemingway, the guide includes recipes for each author’s cocktail of choice, as well as hard-to-top tales of intoxication and classic drinking quotes ( I have a martini, the poet Anne Sexton once said, and I feel, once more, real. ). Hemingway, grandson of Papa and an accomplished illustrator, contributed uncannily accurate author caricatures to the book, while Bailey rounded up the material, spotlighting 43 writers and 43 different drinks. Pick your poison, dear reader, and get mixing.

Once upon a time, drinking seemed like an author's duty, an indulgence that defined the literary life. Of course, the era of the innocent cocktail has ended, but the scent of spirits nevertheless wafts through the work of many of our most prized writers.…
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According to Spanish legend, medieval knight Rodrigo Díaz, known as El Cid, was valiant, honorable and faithful, loyal even to the king who unjustly exiled him. The reality: Well, maybe not. Modern historians say El Cid really existed, but he was a much more mercenary and self-interested character than the hero immortalized in epic poetry, ballads and film.

What on earth does that have to do with a guy named Ambrosio Molinos, who made a really good artisan cheese in the Spanish village of Guzmán for a short time back in the late 20th century? More than you might think, as Michael Paterniti demonstrates in his lovely, rollicking new book, The Telling Room, an exploration of his decade-long attempt to write about Ambrosio and his cheese, Páramo de Guzmán.

Paterniti first heard of this great cheese when he was working for Zingerman’s, a gourmet deli in Ann Arbor, Michigan. Years later, when he was an established freelance writer with a young family, he sought out Ambrosio, who turned out to be a writer’s delight and a teller of innumerable folktales (among them El Cid’s legend). Ambrosio’s greatest story is his own: about how his best friend betrayed him and cheated him out of his cheese company in a bitter dispute. The “telling room” of the book’s title is the small room in the Molinos family’s storage cave (yes, cave) where Ambrosio, the Zorba of Guzmán, waxes poetic.

Infatuated with Ambrosio and Guzmán, Paterniti moved his family to the remote village, only to become blocked, unable to finish the book. Clearly, he worked his way through the dilemma, but only after overcoming his reluctance to check into Ambrosio’s story. It turns out—surprise!—Ambrosio, like El Cid, is perhaps not the perfect knight, any more than Guzmán, with its Franco-era secrets, is a fairy-tale village.

Paterniti writes with charm and verve, providing cultural context with discursive footnotes that mimic Ambrosio’s own circuitous style. He leads the reader down his own twisting path to a deeper understanding of why we need the Ambrosios of the world: They are the storytellers whose magic makes reality bearable.

According to Spanish legend, medieval knight Rodrigo Díaz, known as El Cid, was valiant, honorable and faithful, loyal even to the king who unjustly exiled him. The reality: Well, maybe not. Modern historians say El Cid really existed, but he was a much more mercenary…

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For the wine lover, not the student, Ralph Steadman’s Untrodden Grapes is the prime choice. Wine books are often predictable, but, happily, this is one great gonzo exception. Steadman, most famous as the man who made Hunter Thompson’s fits of Fear and Loathing visible as ink blots and scathing caricatures, is in fact a seasoned wine taster (this is at least his third wine book) and a scout for the Oddbins wine chain. Untrodden Grapes is a combination of wine-inspired art (the Tempranilla varietal is portrayed as a lanky, disgruntled bull with grapes hanging from either horn), irresistibly rude and/or affectionate portraits of different wine regions (Basque women with brusque mustaches, winery dogs, bouquet-sniffing baboons), and photo-collages. There are also more serious discussions of terroir and vignettes of visits to wineries that Steadman and his patient wife Anna have made in search of both sensual pleasure and winemakers of artistic integrity. Steadman might be seen as a sort of anti-Robert Parker; at least, he’s anti-ratings. His complaint is clear from the introduction: Wine is now a finely modulated shelf product, a multifarious and endless gathering together of sameness. Variety of the idiosyncratic kind is rare. These are not critical postcards from the edge but a cri de coeur, a call to arms for individuality and the right sort of idiosyncrasy and, along the way, an explanation of why Jack Nicholson would make an intriguing wine.

Eve Zibart is a restaurant critic for The Washington Post.

 

For the wine lover, not the student, Ralph Steadman's Untrodden Grapes is the prime choice. Wine books are often predictable, but, happily, this is one great gonzo exception. Steadman, most famous as the man who made Hunter Thompson's fits of Fear and Loathing visible…

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Andy Besch, a downsized TV executive who had ordered enough wine during his 30 years on an expense account to try his hand at selling the stuff himself, opened West Side Wines in Manhattan in 1999 and became the neighborhood’s wine guy. Now Besch has written The Wine Guy: Everything You Want to Know About Buying and Enjoying Wine from Someone Who Sells It, a wine primer that employs a question-and-answer style condensed from conversations with his customers over the years. One of the 21st-century user-friendly writers, Besch is at some pains to demystify the selection process. He emphasizes several points that wine drinkers are too often advertised out of believing, the most pertinent being that price does not equal quality. His Wine Guy’s Credo begins with Treat Yourself, encourages experimentation and curiosity and concludes, sanely, Relax. It’s only a beverage. Besch also urges buyers (especially men, who he admits are truly more reluctant to ask directions) to get the advice of the wine seller, and offers a useful section on finding a good wine guy (or gal) and how to help the wine seller help you. The sections on learning to taste wines and recognizing the basic grape varietals are short enough to swallow in one sitting, though not so simplified as to be condescending. (Personally, considering that Jeffrey Grosset won the first-ever Riesling winemaker of the world award, I think Besch underestimates the Rieslings of Australia, especially the Clare Valley, but as he himself would say, that’s my taste.) Eve Zibart is a restaurant critic for The Washington Post.

Andy Besch, a downsized TV executive who had ordered enough wine during his 30 years on an expense account to try his hand at selling the stuff himself, opened West Side Wines in Manhattan in 1999 and became the neighborhood's wine guy. Now Besch has…
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The 2005 vintage of wine writing has been a wide-ranging one, with books touching on the 1976 Paris tasting that blasted California’s Napa Valley into the headlines, the great phylloxera blight and the rise of Robert Parker. We’ve selected three books to send this notable year for wine lovers out with a bang.

If you’re familiar with celebrity chef Jamie Oliver, aka The Naked Chef, you won’t be surprised that one of the first sentences in Matt Skinner’s Thirsty Work: Love Wine Drink Better is, Grapes rock! Skinner, who is the sommelier at Oliver’s London restaurant Fifteen and as young and intentionally rumpled as his boss takes an exaggerated surfer-dude approach to the subject of wine. And since the typefaces are big and emphatic and the book is full of video collage-style photographs (cropped with the film’s sprockets showing) of surfers and young winemakers and waiters learning to taste, it would be easy to dismiss Thirsty Work as wine lit lite. Nevertheless, beneath the sauciness is some real meat. While he often tosses off descriptions of varietals with a calculated brashness ( At its worst, [pinotage] is light, jammy, and bland good for cleaning heavily-charred barbecues! ), Skinner generally gets them exactly right. And his style is certainly accessible. Which is why Oliver hired him in the first place: to teach, as he puts it in the foreword, a bunch of unemployed kids who had never drunk wine before all about wine. Thirsty Work would be a good gift for a college student or first-jobber learning to get around Wine World.

Eve Zibart is a restaurant critic for The Washington Post.

The 2005 vintage of wine writing has been a wide-ranging one, with books touching on the 1976 Paris tasting that blasted California's Napa Valley into the headlines, the great phylloxera blight and the rise of Robert Parker. We've selected three books to send this notable…
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Blue Plate Special began as a series of autobiographical blog posts about food, which Kate Christensen jokes she wanted to write even if her mother were the only reader. The responses to these posts were so enthusiastic that Christensen, author of the acclaimed novels The Astral and The Great Man, among others, knew she’d found the topic of her next book, a mouthwateringly good story that begs to be read and shared.

Blue Plate Special follows the unusual—even eccentric—development of both Christensen’s palate and her very identity. It’s a story full of delicious indulgences and tasty descriptions of fried chicken, fresh produce and cheese. Simple recipes are included throughout, and it is well worth trying a few. (I can personally attest to the tastiness of the spinach pie.) Like many foodies, Christensen’s palate truly awoke during a year-long stay in France, and the stories of her simple meals in the French countryside alone are worth the price of the book.

But her story is also one of deprivation, determination to lose a few pounds, troubling thoughts about wide backsides and what her mother called “huskiness.” Christensen, a passionate and charismatic personality, vacillates between gorging herself on whatever her fancy may be at the moment—say, burritos with fried-up canned beans—and starving herself on diets that involve dipping a carrot in olive oil and calling it lunch. She seems to profoundly understand how she came to be herself, and she shares her insights simply and movingly.

Consider, for instance, her reflection on witnessing domestic violence between her parents in early childhood. “This particular wrecked breakfast,” she writes, “is imprinted on my soul like a big boot mark. It became a kind of primordial scene, the incident around which my lifelong fundamental identity and understanding of the dynamic between women and men was shaped, whether I liked it or not.” This frank insightfulness flavors all of the chapters, which are organized chronologically and span a wide geography, both literally and metaphorically.

For much of her life, Christensen writes that she was “a hungry, lonely wild animal looking for happiness and stability.” Readers will celebrate that she, at long last, finds both.

Blue Plate Special began as a series of autobiographical blog posts about food, which Kate Christensen jokes she wanted to write even if her mother were the only reader. The responses to these posts were so enthusiastic that Christensen, author of the acclaimed novels

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Julia Reed could make boiled newspaper sound delicious. It’s not just that she describes a meal well, though there are several in her new book that had me drooling (none of which involved ladling the Washington Post on toast). She gives each meal a juicy backstory and characters you wish you’d stayed up all night carousing with, making it the stuff of legend and not just a midnight snack. Her latest essay collection, But Mama Always Put Vodka in Her Sangria!, is a sensory delight and fantasia for aspiring chefs, but it’s also big-hearted and fun.

Reed, a contributing editor at Garden & Gun magazine, writes a column there called “The High & the Low.” That phrase captures some of the book’s charm. When Reed breaks off an engagement, she and her fiancé still take the honeymoon to Paris, then have a falling-out which sends her rushing to Vogue icon Andre Leon Talley for cocktails and solace. Just when a reader might start to chafe at the soirées and name-dropping, Reed shifts gears and riffs at length about holiday grog and family dysfunction, as seen through the lens of the Robert Earl Keen song “Merry Christmas from the Family,” an anthem of equalization if ever there was one. And then, of course, there are those recipes.

“Southerners have been doing ‘farm to table’—mostly by necessity—since long before the phrase was taken up by every foodie in the land,” says Reed, and many of the meals and cocktails outlined here are inspired by seasonal bounty (or excess of same). There are treats cribbed from five-star chefs featured alongside classics of Southern hospitality like Spinach Madeleine, which will never be the same now that Kraft has discontinued their jalapeno-spiked Velveeta.

From a gourmet meal taken in an Afghanistan lodge reclaimed from the Bin Laden family, to an intimate look at the making of Spanish paprika (with a few trips to the bullfights thrown in), But Mama Always Put Vodka in Her Sangria! is as heady as the brew it’s named for, uptown yet simple in its elegance.

Julia Reed could make boiled newspaper sound delicious. It’s not just that she describes a meal well, though there are several in her new book that had me drooling (none of which involved ladling the Washington Post on toast). She gives each meal a juicy…

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Sheherazade Goldsmith wants you to grow herbs and vegetables, use energy-efficient lighting, bake bread and if you’re brave enough raise a pig or two. A Slice of Organic Life, which compiles Goldsmith’s sensible and folksy suggestions for eco-friendly, back-to-the-earth living, encourages us to change our planet-damaging lifestyle habits one at a time, whether we’re city dwellers, suburbanites or rural residents.

Goldsmith believes it’s the tiny changes we make that are crucial, noting that each one of us has a role to play in reversing the decline of our planet, whether it’s turning our televisions off at the wall or installing a wood-burning stove. So, are you ready to change the world? A Slice of Organic Life, which hops on the trendy, sustainable living bandwagon, gently shows you how in three instructive sections: one for city dwellers with no land, another for those who have garden space and the third for people of the 40-acre ilk. Earth-friendly tips abound, from growing lettuces and using natural cleaning products to composting, churning butter and heating household water naturally. While some tips are sketchy, such as how to Nourish Skin Naturally (only one homemade facial recipe is included), there is a useful resource directory that expands consumer knowledge of companies and organizations whose products and services are relevant to an organic lifestyle. No matter how well intentioned, any book that tells us how to live risks veering dangerously into preachy waters. This one does not: It is an earnest, friendly manual that’ll entice you into the kitchen to make jam even if you’ve never before successfully boiled water.

Sheherazade Goldsmith wants you to grow herbs and vegetables, use energy-efficient lighting, bake bread and if you're brave enough raise a pig or two. A Slice of Organic Life, which compiles Goldsmith's sensible and folksy suggestions for eco-friendly, back-to-the-earth living, encourages us to change…
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<B>Let’s get together</B> And for anyone or any group contemplating starting a wine tasting club, <B>Wine Spectator’s Ultimate Wine Tasting Kit</B> would be ideal. It’s a boxed set about the size of an Umberto Eco novel (or a Robert Parker tome) that includes a 240-page “Essentials of Wine” guide, a condensed “Pocket Guide” for carrying about, a beginner’s guide to hosting wine tastings, and fun paraphernalia such as stemware, bottle tags and reusable bottle bags for the hidden-label games. There’s also a coupon for two free issues of Wine Spectator, which, all things considered, is only reasonable advertising. <I>Eve Zibart is a restaurant reviewer for the</I> Washington Post <I>and author of</I> The Ethnic Food Lover’s Companion.

<B>Let's get together</B> And for anyone or any group contemplating starting a wine tasting club, <B>Wine Spectator's Ultimate Wine Tasting Kit</B> would be ideal. It's a boxed set about the size of an Umberto Eco novel (or a Robert Parker tome) that includes a 240-page…
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<B>Let’s get together</B> Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher are the authors of the unpretentious and popular Friday "Tastings" column in <I>The Wall Street Journal</I>. They’re not wine critics, in the traditional sense, but populists, and unofficial cheerleaders for the wine culture. Their new book, <B>Wine for Every Day and Every Occasion: Red, White, and Bubbly to Celebrate the Joy of Living</B>, is full of reader recommendations, anecdotes about first holidays together, restaurants they have dined at and ways to have fun with wine parties including a list of questions to "start the fun," such as "What did Hannibal Lector consider the perfect wine with liver?" Clearly, Gaiter and Brecher are a matter of personal taste (sorry). The book’s chatty tone sometimes verges on the self-congratulatory (gee, we’re famous!), but there is some good information to be gleaned. In fact, the discussion of wine wedding showers and how much wine is needed at a reception might make this a useful gift for the newly engaged.

<I>Eve Zibart is a restaurant reviewer for the</I> Washington Post <I>and author of</I> The Ethnic Food Lover’s Companion.

<B>Let's get together</B> Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher are the authors of the unpretentious and popular Friday "Tastings" column in <I>The Wall Street Journal</I>. They're not wine critics, in the traditional sense, but populists, and unofficial cheerleaders for the wine culture. Their new book,…

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The Eyewitness Companions series of travel guides is rightfully famous for its full-color photos and high-quality paper and for its intriguing details on famous buildings and personalities, but the format doesn’t work quite as smoothly in Wines of the World, which is a slightly ungainly combination of tour brochure and wine primer. At times it strains for prettiness, and its factoids often read like picture captions, but it eventually gets its rhythm. The discussion of tannins and their role in wines is trenchant, the descriptions of key flavors and the explanations of how to read wine labels of various countries is useful. Still, there’s a sort of conundrum: the maps and wine region trails, followed by capsules of dependable labels, would seem to be more help to someone actually on the ground, but the book is best used as a buying guide. And while it includes commendably strong sections on less well-known wine regions in Hungary or Romania, for instance, giving Nelson Mandela credit for sparking the winemaking revolution in South Africa is a bit of a stretch.

Eve Zibart is a restaurant reviewer for the Washington Post and author of The Ethnic Food Lover’s Companion.

The Eyewitness Companions series of travel guides is rightfully famous for its full-color photos and high-quality paper and for its intriguing details on famous buildings and personalities, but the format doesn't work quite as smoothly in Wines of the World, which is a slightly ungainly…
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Master sommelier Andrea Immer, who has consistently sought to make even big-name wine accessible and appealing, is also a graduate of the French Culinary Institute, and this year she has turned both her food and wine expertise to making the end of the day something to look forward to. Everyday Dining With Wine is the ideal hybrid of cookbook and wine guide, combing unintimidating but memorable descriptions of the major wine varieties with equally low-key and rewarding recipes. Immer believes that making dinner should be as much fun for the two or four of you as for company. In fact, some of the most intriguing recipes are the simplest, thanks to her adventurous way with a blender. She turns dried porcini into dustings for foie gras or for tuna with black bean-hoisin sauce; makes edamame (soybeans) into pesto for angel hair pasta and smoked salmon; rolls chicken in oatmeal and sauces it with Gewurtztraminer. This is the book for the cook who has more tastebuds than time. Despite her credentials, Immer is no wine snob. She offers a range of wine pairings for each recipe: an inexpensive “everyday” wine, a moderately priced “once a week” label and the expensive “once a month” choice. As they used to say about wine, Immer just keeps getting better. Eve Zibart is a restaurant reviewer for the Washington Post and author of The Ethnic Food Lover’s Companion.

Master sommelier Andrea Immer, who has consistently sought to make even big-name wine accessible and appealing, is also a graduate of the French Culinary Institute, and this year she has turned both her food and wine expertise to making the end of the day something…
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As entertaining as it is informative, Life Is Meals: A Food Lover’s Book of Days is beautifully illustrated and full of much more than recipes or food lore (although it includes both). Written by PEN/Faulkner Award-winner James Salter and his playwright wife Kay Salter, the book has a short entry for each day of the year and is packed with fascinating tidbits.

The charm of Life Is Meals is the Salters’ quirky selection and arrangement of facts. Although some entries offer a historical food fact (the menu on the Titanic on the night it went down), others are random observations (what makes a good waiter) or tips on throwing a dinner party, which fruits go with which cheeses (June 27) or the evolution of the fork (January 13). Difficult to put down, this is a book to keep by the bedside and give to every foodie on your list.

Lisa Waddle is a pastry baker and food writer in Nashville.

As entertaining as it is informative, Life Is Meals: A Food Lover's Book of Days is beautifully illustrated and full of much more than recipes or food lore (although it includes both). Written by PEN/Faulkner Award-winner James Salter and his playwright wife Kay Salter, the…

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