The Icon and the Idealist is a compelling, warts-and-all dual biography of the warring leaders of the early 20th-century birth control movement: Margaret Sanger and Mary Ware Dennett.
The Icon and the Idealist is a compelling, warts-and-all dual biography of the warring leaders of the early 20th-century birth control movement: Margaret Sanger and Mary Ware Dennett.
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The House of Gucci: A Sensational Story of Murder, Madness, Glamour, and Greed Murder, madness, glamour, and greed. Yep, I’d say that pretty well covers it.

“One of the first status labels” to emerge after World War II, the Gucci luxury goods company, most noted for its shoes and bags, started with a small shop opened by Guccio Gucci in Florence, Italy, in 1921. Surviving an earlier cheap “drugstore image,” the international, multimillion-dollar business “was imprinted on the American mentality as top-of-the-line chic,” in the 1970s.

Behind the scenes, however (and often more publicly), the Gucci fortunes traced an erratic course that was probably predictable, the author points out, in light of the family’s “individualistic and haughty” Tuscan character: “arrogant, self-sufficient, and closed to outsiders.” Two of Guccio’s sons, Aldo and Rodolfo, alternately fought and made up, and the family tensions escalated into the third generation when their sons, particularly Paolo and the charismatic Maurizio, intensified the conflicts among and between generations.

Often endangered by hostile takeovers and damaging business and government run-ins, the Gucci firm recovered some of its old glitz in the late 1990s. By the turn of the century, under the guidance of a foreign investment firm, it has resolidified its business base and entered into a brilliant partnership with the Yves Saint Laurent label. Its edgier “power look” seems to promise great strides under new management, and more celebrity for the Gucci name.

So much for the glamour and greed. The madness, aside from typical excesses not uncommon in the high-fashion world, is linked to the murder of Maurizio in 1995. The person convicted of instigating the murder is behind bars, and was one of some 100 persons interviewed by Forden, the former Milan bureau chief for Women’s Wear Daily. The parade of hot shot lawyers and business experts is never-ending, and they all have their say, through Forden’s pen. The successive acts of the Gucci spectacle will keep the pages turning and readers anxious to turn to the newspapers for further news of this ongoing drama.

Maude McDaniel writes from Cumberland, Maryland.

The House of Gucci: A Sensational Story of Murder, Madness, Glamour, and Greed Murder, madness, glamour, and greed. Yep, I'd say that pretty well covers it.

"One of the first status labels" to emerge after World War II, the Gucci luxury goods…

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For your heroine Recently, much attention has been paid to the mythical heroes of the ancient world. Their representations have been primarily masculine, and if you read the ancient literature, it’s easy to see why. The timeless tales of heroes were created by men for the enjoyment of men. Women, for the most part, played minor roles.

With Women of Mythology by Kay Retzlaff, we see, at last, ancient myth from a feminine perspective women as doers. From the no-nonsense ferocity of the Amazon queen, Myrine, who captured Atlantis, to the exploits of Chinese General Mulan, women arise from myth in much the same way as their male counterparts.

Illustrated with exquisite full-color reproductions of famous depictions of art, Women of Mythology takes readers, young and old alike, on an inspiring journey of women as seen through the eye of the ages.

For your heroine Recently, much attention has been paid to the mythical heroes of the ancient world. Their representations have been primarily masculine, and if you read the ancient literature, it's easy to see why. The timeless tales of heroes were created by men for…
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Stephen Ambrose: a guide for appreciating our history Stephen E. Ambrose’s histories are as vivid as screenplays. One moment you’re overlooking the distant battlefield, the next you’re huddled head-to-head with the generals in the command tent. That’s how it is with Ambrose’s latest DeMillean epic, Nothing Like It In The World: The Men Who Built The Transcontinental Railroad 1863-1869. By every measure from the speed at which it was done to the exquisite coordination of effort it required the railroad was a stunning achievement.

First came the dreamers and surveyors, as Ambrose recounts, then the capitalists and their political allies, and finally the hordes of laborers essential to giving substance to the dream.

Even as the Confederate army strove to split the nation apart, south from north, equally determined forces converged to bind it together, east to west by the railroad. The Central Pacific inched eastward over the mountains from Sacramento, California, while the Union Pacific crawled west across the plains and deserts from Omaha, Nebraska. Along the way, the builders had to contend with gargantuan costs and shaky financing, impassible mountains, worker shortages, devastating weather, fragile supply lines, hostile Indians, and the incessant economic pressure to lay track faster. To fathom the enormity of the undertaking, Ambrose traveled much of the railroad’s original route, inspecting both the harsh terrain and the engineering marvels that tamed it. He populates his account with figures who, if not larger than life, are made more fully alive by their great ambition and determination. Chief among these are the Central Pacific’s “Big Four” Leland Stanford, Collis Huntington, Charles Crocker, and Mark Hopkins and the Union Pacific’s wily Thomas “Doc” Durant and his point man, General Grenville Dodge. For years, Ambrose had viewed these men as ruthless opportunists.

“I thought of them as robber barons,” says the eminent historian, speaking by phone from his home in Helena, Montana. “I thought they made ungodly profits and then used them in nefarious ways, especially Huntington and Stanford. But I had been taught by men who did their graduate work in the ’30s, and they just hated big business.” While conceding that the builders did reap huge fortunes, Ambrose now concludes they deserved to. “These guys went deeply in debt,” he explains. “They didn’t really risk their lives, their fortunes, and their sacred honor, but they damn near did.” Ambrose is equally admiring of the laborers who would accomplish the seemingly impossible one day and better it the next. Chinese immigrant workers, he points out, were absolutely vital to the Central Pacific. They were called in, albeit reluctantly, after American workers kept leaving the job to search for riches in the gold and silver mines of California and Nevada. When James Strobridge, Central Pacific’s head of construction, balked at hiring the Chinese, asserting that they were too small to do such physically demanding work, Crocker reminded him that they had been strong enough to build the Great Wall of China. Before long, the company was sending recruiters to China.

Ambrose admits that most historians, like his old professors, write from a political agenda. But does he? “I used to,” he says. “It’s a different world we’re living in now. I mean, I used to care terribly about the Vietnam War. But I don’t have a political agenda anymore, other than I want young people in America, now and in the future, to understand that freedom doesn’t come free, that the blessings they’ve got by being Americans were paid for. And I want them to know who paid and how and what they did.” Warming to this subject, Ambrose continues, “For a quick example: I want them to know more about Thomas Jefferson than [his relationship with] Sally Hemmings. I want them to know that Thomas Jefferson wrote the Virginia Statute of Religious Liberty, and I want everyone else be they Muslim, Buddhist, Rainbow People, Protestant, Catholic, or whatever to know that their right to believe what they want to believe and worship as they choose to worship comes from Thomas Jefferson. I want them to know if they live in Wisconsin or Iowa or any of the other Louisiana Purchase states or any of the other states west of the Allegheny Mountains, the reason they get to vote for senators and congressmen and that their states are co-equal with the original 13 is because of the Northwest Ordinance. I want them to know that, and I want them to appreciate that.” A university history teacher until his retirement in 1995, Ambrose concedes that his views of history are now out of fashion on campus. “It’s not the way most academic historians teach history,” he says. “Most of them teach that Jefferson had a slave mistress and that George Washington was a slaveholder. I want them to know that George Washington led us in war and in peace. In war, he knew if he was captured, they were going to send him to London, they were going to put him on trial, they were going to find him guilty of treason and then they were going to draw and quarter him. I make sure those kids know what drawing and quartering means. Obviously, Washington’s being a slaveholder is an important part of his life and of history. But there’s a lot more.” For years, Ambrose wrote histories and biographies which were well received but which sold poorly. “I badly needed my income [from teaching],” he says. “I wrote books that got very nice reviews, but it used to be I’d be lucky if they sold 20,000 copies. I’d get a royalty check, and I could take the wife out to dinner or maybe pay for a summer off and do some research. But nothing to make me a rich man. And then Undaunted Courage is the one that just burst.” Undaunted Courage: Meriwether Lewis, Thomas Jefferson, and the Opening of the American West was published in 1996. “At first, my editor, Alice Mayhew, didn’t want me to do the book,” Ambrose recalls. “She said, ÔNobody wants to read about dead white males.’ I said, ÔI do, Alice.’ . . . Now the book’s at two million hardback and two million paperback. So I became a rich man. But it happened to me late in life, or relatively late. I was 58 or 59 years old, and all of a sudden I had a lot of money.” He credits Mayhew for suggesting he write his current book. Indeed, he dedicates it to her. “This is the second time Alice has done this to me,” he says, with a good-natured laugh. “The first time, it cost me a decade of my life.” It was Mayhew, he explains, who talked him into doing what became a two-volume biography of Richard Nixon.

Good fortune has not appreciably altered the way Ambrose researches and writes. “I’m a Luddite, I’m afraid. I came to the computer fairly late in my career. I like to say now because it’s true that the ability to move paragraphs around and spell-check is so good that if I’d had the computer earlier, I’d have five more books. . . . My son, who now works with me, uses the computer for research. But I have no idea how to do it. I can’t even do e-mail.” (In spite of Ambrose’s own technophobia, his son has erected a fancy and useful website on his dad’s behalf at www.stephenambrose.com.) Next up for Ambrose is a history of the 15th Air Force and their B-24 Liberator bombers. “It came about because George McGovern asked me to write about his wartime career,” Ambrose says. “That was awfully tempting because here was the world’s most famous anti-bombing advocate who was a bomber pilot. Thirty-five missions. The Distinguished Flying Cross. That part of it fascinated me.” As for the Transcontinental Railroad, Ambrose says, our fascination focuses on the mammoth and awe-inspiring construction project, but it is best appreciated at a higher level: “It tied us together,” he asserts, “east and west.” Edward Morris writes on music, politics, and fiction from Nashville.

Stephen Ambrose: a guide for appreciating our history Stephen E. Ambrose's histories are as vivid as screenplays. One moment you're overlooking the distant battlefield, the next you're huddled head-to-head with the generals in the command tent. That's how it is with Ambrose's latest DeMillean epic,…

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The legacy of the ancient Greeks is so overwhelming in so many areas democracy, literature, philosophy, science, mathematics, mythology, drama, art, the Olympic games it is easy to idealize them. As Charles Freeman writes, A popular image of Athens has survived in which the marble is always shining, the streets are clean, and there is a lot of time for passionate philosophical discussions about art, theater, and the meaning of life. But Freeman is keenly aware of the human reality behind the reputation and the paradoxes that accompanied the towering accomplishments. His magnificent The Greek Achievement: The Foundation of the Western World offers the general reader an excellent introduction to the subject. The author uses the best of recent scholarship and excerpts from the works of many classic sources such as Homer, Plato, Aeschylus, and Sappho, in a fast-paced narrative that covers almost 2,000 years of cultural, diplomatic, and military history.

Greek society had a rich spiritual tradition that involved a complex mythology. For example, It was typical for a new city to find a protecting god, Athena at Athens, Apollo in Corinth, for instance, and sacred areas, both inside and outside of the city were set aside for temples . . . in which to worship them. After her victory in the Persian wars, for 75 years Athens became the most important force in the Greek world. Democracy was sustained by empire; drama was an essential part of democratic participation, philosophy fostered by the experience of intense debate within a city setting. The city’s pride was enhanced by the magnificent building program on the Acropolis. But Freeman notes: Athens’ democracy depended on slavery and the fruits of empire. Democratic government did not necessarily mean benign government. The Athenian assembly could order the massacre of the entire male population of another Greek island and the enslavement of its women and children. Women were segregated and marginalized in almost every area.

Freeman explains that until recently we knew virtually nothing about the Greeks as farmers. But Ninety percent of Greeks made their living on the land and it was their surpluses which underpinned city life. He discusses the close relationship between town and country. There is no sense of an urban elite who use the countryside primarily as a leisure source and look down on the more ignorant country dweller. Such an idea comes only in Hellenistic times when poems about the countryside are written by urban poets who clearly see the countryside as something to enjoy or use as a backdrop to tales of love and seduction in shady groves. There is a fascinating discussion of the intense interest in the place of the hero that began in the eighth century. Who was the hero? How limited were his powers? Alongside heroic behavior comes the idealization of the heroic male body. The search for perfection in the human form was to prove one of the driving forces of Greek art. Homer’s epics are not concerned only with glorifying the hero. The greatness of the Iliad and Odyssey as literature lies arguably in the way they illustrate the difficulties inherent in the heroic role.

The greatest glory for the hero comes from activities which court death and yet death brings nothing but a shadowy existence in the underworld. Here is the ultimate and inexplicable human tragedy. This rich overview points out the flaw of the Greek political system was that it never developed a theory of human rights. Rights and duties were assigned not on a universal basis but on the grounds of status and sex. The author also notes that a major point to remember is the resilience of the Greek culture. As he surveys the Greeks from 1550 B.

C. to A.

D. 600, from Mycenae to the Byzantine Empire, their influence spreads to other lands, other cultures.

The legacy of the ancient Greeks is so overwhelming in so many areas democracy, literature, philosophy, science, mathematics, mythology, drama, art, the Olympic games it is easy to idealize them. As Charles Freeman writes, A popular image of Athens has survived in which the marble…

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Eye of the beholder Editor’s note: Each month we see lots of books. Some of the curious arrivals are featured in this space.

The word “supercilious,” from two Latin words meaning above the eyelid, refers to the disdainful raising of an eyebrow to express contempt. That must be the expression I had on my face when I first encountered The Eyebrow, by Hollywood makeup artist Robyn Cosio and fashion writer Cynthia Robins. Yes, as Ecclesiastes noted long ago, of the making of books there is no end, but there are limits. What’s left after this? The Book of Moles? Or perhaps What Your Perspiration Patterns Say About You? However, as I flipped through this photo-stuffed compendium of folklore and fashion victims, I came perilously near being converted to its theme. If shamelessly useless trivia and new perspectives appeal to you as much as they do to me, you must own this book. Besides, any tome with Myrna Loy and Lauren Bacall can’t be all bad. There’s even a chapter on the male eyebrow, including those of Clark Gable and Yul Brynner.

By now you are no doubt asking yourself in despair, “Is there hope for the unkempt awnings over my own unfamous eyes?” Take heart, aspiring browbeaters: You too can tweeze your way to beauty and prevent the demon brow from taking over your entire face (which is precisely what happened to Cousin It on The Addams Family), for among the historical anecdotes you will find a lot of how-to advice. Most of it sounds painful, but hey, nobody ever said beauty is pretty.

Eye of the beholder Editor's note: Each month we see lots of books. Some of the curious arrivals are featured in this space.

The word "supercilious," from two Latin words meaning above the eyelid, refers to the disdainful raising of an eyebrow…

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Dining as the Romans do Okay, so this is another in the seemingly endless expatriate paeans to foreign culture published in the post-Year in Provence era. And yes, Alan Epstein is tickled pink with himself at having pulled off living, even making a living, right in the heart of Rome; he finds it hard to get through a paragraph without tossing in a little vernacular Italian to remind us of his fluency. Even so, it’s hard not to like As the Romans Do: The Delights, Dramas, and Daily Diversions of Life in the Eternal City, not only because Epstein truly loves his adopted city but because unlike Peter Mayle and so many of his ilk, Epstein writes from within the cultural circle, not from without; and if you’ve grimaced at the clumsy ethnocentrism of some of those faux innocents abroad, you’ll be far more comfortable in the armchair of this transplanted Romantic.

More seriously, if you have ever visited Rome and fallen under the spell of its ageless and yet proudly ancient mysteries, you will be nostalgically moved at Epstein’s succumbing to the same seductions. There is still a bit of the gee-whiz in his descriptions of Roman food, social customs, architecture, etc. But he backs his passions with a wealth of detail, a touch of history, and a flourish of cinematic color. And his habit of tossing in hilarious asides with editorial abandon is itself entirely Italian. In fact, the most Italian thing about his writing is its reluctance to stop for a period.

For instance: Epstein sighs over the simple pleasures of everyday dining, “more satisfying on a day-to-day basis than the miscellaneous cooking that passes for the American variety at this point, or the vaunted, sauce French kind. (Mention French cuisine to a romana, and she will wave her hand and remind you that the French were still barbarians who ate with their fingers when Catherine de’ Medici arrived in 1535 to marry the king, introduce the Renaissance, and teach the francesi how to cook at the same time.) Just give me a plate of delicious risotto con zucca e piselli (rice with pureed pumpkin and peas), or spaghetti al pescatore at Luna Piena in Testaccio; or fettucine with tomatoes, basil and mozzarella at Gran Sasso on Via di Ripetta near the Piazza del Popolo, where Mom cooks in her blue apron and slippers in full view of the diners, and her two sons deliver the food . . . ” And on and on, page after page, until you are either starving or infuriated or captivated. Or, in equally Italian fashion, all of the above.

But after all this fervid extravagance, Epstein frequently makes a surprisingly succinct point: “Romans eat out to duplicate the experience of eating in, not to experience something new, exotic or foreign.” Why, yes, exactly.

If Epstein does sometimes go overboard, as when he details the invariably perfect hair, makeup, clothing, and style of the Roman women (although, in fact, they are almost uniformly stunning and do carry themselves with more disarming confidence than anyone except perhaps the Parisians) well, chalk it up to one of his previous professions matchmaker and “relationship counselor.” He may be a sort of motivational speaker for following your dream, but he’s earned it. He and his wife Diane were engaged within a month of their first date, married seven months later, spent an extended honeymoon in Italy, and embarked on a three-year campaign to become permanent residents of Rome. And five years later, they’re still ecstatic.

Wine made easy Romans are anything but wine snobs: A typical trattoria meal is priced to include some sort of antipasti, pasta, meat, or seafood and a carafe of wine, red or white. Table wine, vino paisano, whatever except in the fanciest of (American-influenced) restaurants, wine is easy come, easy go down.

Among the most popular table whites is Orvietto, which is produced in the neighboring province of Umbria. A blend of four grapes, predominantly what’s called procanico (trebbiano), it’s most often drunk young, when its green notes are crisp and punctual, but it can be allowed to mellow for a couple of years to deepen its browner undertones.

Antinori’s 1999 Orvieto Classico has a broomstraw pallor and a short, very crisp frontal assault of grapefruit, kaffir lime, pineapple, and cedar; at $11 a bottle, it definitely suggests an end-of-summer cocktail party. If you’re curious about Umbrian Chardonnays, try Antinori’s 1999 Castello della Salla; at about $12 a bottle, it’s an easy house wine, good now and probably deepening for another couple of years (although it will never be a really chewy wine). Narrow but complex, it presents a crisp heirloom apple nose and a complimentary front, with hints of grapefruit and toasted almond; allowed to warm a bit, it develops an ephermeral smokiness, a bit of nougat, and ripe pear. The finish is short but refreshing.

Eve Zibart is a restaurant critic for the Washington Post. This column reflects her dual interests in travel and wine.

Dining as the Romans do Okay, so this is another in the seemingly endless expatriate paeans to foreign culture published in the post-Year in Provence era. And yes, Alan Epstein is tickled pink with himself at having pulled off living, even making a living, right…

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